Our welcome to Lasithi

The island of Crete, the largest in Greece, is diverse in a way the others aren’t. It has soaring peaks frosted with snow. Broad highlands dotted with sheep and windmills. One of Europe’s longest canyons. Coastal communities whose buildings still evidence occupation by the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Egyptians, and Ottomans. Ruins from the seat of Europe’s most ancient advanced civilization (the Minoan). And entire cities that have nothing to do with tourism.

Its 3,219 square miles – about 4.5 hours end to end – are sectioned east to west into four prefectures: Lasithi, Heraklion, Rethymno, and Chania. (Or Lassithi, Heraclion / Iraklion, Rethimno / Rethymnos /Rethymnon, and Hania. Every town in Crete has multiple spellings.)

Seeing all three of them takes time. You could easily spend a week exploring each region, with a few days on the northern half by the Aegean Sea, and a few on the south by the Libyan Sea. We had half that time for our Crete holiday, so we didn’t get to visit Heraklion, and our posts about the others will share a similar format: the highlights of what we saw, and the highlights of what we missed.

Along Lassithi’s Aegean coast in spring

Our first stop in Crete was Lassithi, the easternmost province and the least developed for tourism. We vastly underestimated the driving times here and were up against unfavorable weather, so overall explored far less of this jam-packed province than anticipated.

Around Agios Nikolaos

The town of Agios Nikolaos in Lasithi, Eastern Crete, Greece. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This cute marina town had a healthy mix of local buzz and tourist ease, but it’s hardly undiscovered. High season months will draw crowds like most places in the Mediterranean. Top attractions include its “bottomless” salt lake and byzantine churches.

Our highlights:

BioAroma natural body products

Walk into any tourist shop in Crete and you’ll be encouraged to buy olive oil skincare.  Turning a famous local product into marketable potions and lotions is nothing new  – think Dead Sea salts in Israel or wine products in France – but the kicker here is that they contain all-natural ingredients.

This is one of the things that impressed me most about the island (and about Greece: many of you already know the naturals brand Korres, sold at Sephora, and perhaps even APIVITA). BioAroma takes this culture to another level, distilling essential oils from culinary and medicinal herbs grown around the island and folding them into luscious products that adhere to traditional island recipes.

A hundred kilos of herbs yield just 1.5% oil, so the entire process is a labor of love. The owner has created a museum to help explain traditional production methods, and brings in school groups to teach local children the importance of perpetuating traditional trades and producing with natural ingredients. I’m already looking to re-stock my supply, so if anybody wants to share a joint shipment….

Homemade essential oils at BioAroma

No Name Cafe

Never in a million years would I have chosen to dine at this tiny gyro shop with a name written only in Greek; it’s situated right in the middle of the main tourist terrace next to the marina and displays a large stand-up picture menu with descriptions in several languages (look for the one with the red table cloths and a soft-serve ice cream machine outside). But don’t let my initial reticence put you off. Here you’ll find perfectly worthy gyros and the best saganaki – local pan-fried cheese – that we found on the island. (Not to mention great entertainment from the waiter, who will attend to you in between beer breaks.)

Next time we’ll visit:

Elounda

We trimmed this village from our list because of its reputation as a glitterati hotspot; we were more interested in soaking up traditional culture than lounging with today’s cultural elite. Later we found out that on top of the area’s striking natural beauty there are a number of independent boutique hotels adhering to the traditional spirit, such as the Minos Beach Art Hotel, whose single-level bungalows were created by the founder of Koutsounari Traditional Cottages, were we stayed near Ierapetra.

Kritsa traditional village

I’m not sure which contest it was, but according to Lasithi’s tourist office this tiny village won the prize for producing the world’s best olive oil. Regardless, Crete’s olive oil is prized the world over, so supporting a village which maintains traditional production methods is an added bonus. The harvest and production season starts in November, but if you’d like to visit another time you can email me for contact information.

Lassithi plateau

Perhaps the most famous destination in the Lassithi region, this photo-worthy mountain highland is surrounded by snow-capped peaks and is home to numerous sheep and windmills.

Lasithi Plateau in Lasithi prefecture, Crete (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Around Ierapetra

Ierapetra’s surrounding hills are filled with greenhouses, not tourism. Despite the dominant agriculture economy, it’s the place where we most plainly witnessed the “creesees” (economic crisis) that is on the lips of people throughout the hard-hit Mediterranean. Listless young men roamed the streets or sat in outdoor cafes, nursing a frappe for an afternoon (speaking to underemployment) and the greenhouses were ripped and held together with duct tape (speaking to underinvestment). However, the area, like most of Crete’s southern, Libyan-sea coast, is a good option for those looking to get off the beaten track. True to fashion, it’s the more inaccessible places that have fewer tourists: Crete’s main highway runs along the northern, not the southern, coast.

*Tip: Regarding eating establishments, “going local” in Crete means being shrouded in secondhand smoke. If that sounds unappealing and you can’t find an uncrowded outdoor terrace, you might need to bite the bullet and head to a restaurant that caters to foreigners.

Our highlights:

Koutsounari

The oldest hotel in this town, situated in a reappropriated traditional stone village, is what drew us to this part of the island. Stay tuned to a later post for more details.

Detail from the stone Koutsounari Traditional Cottages

Myrtos

If it’s windy in Koutsounari and Ierapetra, drive twenty minutes west to this small village for the afternoon, or explore nearby Mitho or the Sarakina Gorge. Myrtos enjoys a famous beach of soft white pebbles, and for the naturists among you, beaches nearby neighboring Tertsa  allow nudism. Free spirits of the 1970s were the first foreigners to spend time in this area, and their hippy legacy remains in the form of dreadlocked 20-somethings, frequently seen driving old vans.

Mitho (Mithoi)

Meaning “myth,” this hillside village of shady trees and streams was a stopping place for Minoan King Minos, who liked to be entertained with stories (myths). Not only is this the right kind of place to strike up a conversation with locals in a café (friendliness was one of the main reasons a local bartender returned to Crete after living abroad. “Even if you have never been there, you step into a bar in a mountain village and somebody will buy you a coffee.”), but it’s also the start of an ancient Minoan path. Along the hiking trail you can see evidence of the original cobblestones, the Nykteridospilon cave of bats, 14^th century churches, and panoramic views which take in the ancient Minoan palace of Myrtos.

At the mouth of the narrow Sarakina Gorge

Sarakina Gorge

Crete boasts several dramatic gorges (canyons), the most famous being the Samaria Gorge in the Chania province. Since we knew we likely wouldn’t make it there, we made sure to visit Lassithi’s remarkably narrow Sarakina, with its steep sides and polychromatic gray-blue-browns. Find the road by heading first to Mitho and wind your way down to the parking area. A five-minute flat path will take you to the gorge. Hiking conditions depend on the water level of its stream, but be prepared to get your feet wet if you want to hike deeper than the mouth.

Next time we’ll visit:

Chrissi (Chrysi) Island

The gem of this region, Chrissi is an uninhabited paradise and protected nature zone that seems to have been plucked from the Bahamas. It’s clear, shallow waters create some of the best beaches in the Mediterranean and it is home to a large Lebanon Cedar forest, Minoan ruins, and a Roman cemetery.  Unfortunately it was too windy and cold for us to make the hour-long boat trip worthwhile.

The waters of Chrissi Island. Photo credit: Manos Perakaki via Wikipedia

Around Sitia

On the easternmost point of the island, Sitia is remote (although it has a small airport) and therefore less affected by the summer crowds. We planned to visit, but at the last minute altered plans because of timing. It would top our list if we returned.

Dikteon Cave

Purported birthplace of the god Zeus, it now attracts visitors because of interesting stalactites.

Toplou Monastery (Moni Toplou)

The monks at this picturesque 15th century monastery are renowned for honey-making skills, which is one of the staples of Greek food (not to mention – like everything consumed in Crete – ridiculously healthy. More about that later. By arranging a visit, you can learn all about the island’s bee culture.

Toplou monastery (Moni Toplou), Crete, Greece: inner court. Photo credit: Wikipedia

Its peaceful setting belies the hardships endured by its monks over centuries of foreign invasions. At one point during the Greek Revolution of Independence, all of its monks were slaughtered by the opposing Turks.

Vai

Europe’s largest palm forest with a long white beach attached. Caveat emptor: This is one of the greatest tourist draws on Crete, and belongs to the Toplou Monatery. After some degradation during the 1970s and 1980s when it was a popular camping ground for backpackers, the forest is now a protected nature zone.

English: The palm beach of Vai (Crete, Greece). Photo credit: Wikipedia

Lasithi: A peek at Crete’s eastern, least-developed region is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

“Later it might seem hard to believe, but this is the exact shade of the water,” I remember telling myself. Years after I pulled the postcard out of its drawer, and if it hadn’t been for that sentence I would have been doubtful. Some things never change, because once again it’s hard to believe:

One of the settings for the movie Zorba the Greek

Crete was the last stop on our Goodbye Europe Grand Tour, but we’re making it the first stop in our chronicles (and will work backwards for the rest of the trip, too). We were lured by the island’s geographical diversity and storied history … and an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s where he raved about the wild greens served at nearly every meal. (Actually, that last bit enticed me, but not Ben.) Although we tried our best, we couldn’t see the entire island in nine days.

The Greek islands can be breezy and cool in spring, so tourist season doesn’t usually begin until the Holy Week of Greek Orthodox Easter. We were there just beforehand, and lucked into beautiful warm weather at the end together with few crowds, green hills, snow-capped mountains, and an avalanche of pretty wildflowers (there were a few minuses to the timing, which we’ll describe in a future post). Take a look for yourself:

Ben stands at the mouth of the narrow Sarakina Gorge in Crete’s Eastern Lassithi province. Even in this rugged isolation, we stumbled across a love lock (left)!

Photo credit for images 1 and 3, clockwise from left: nakoutradition.gr for Koutsounari Traditional Cottages

We’re so appreciative of hotels that blend tradition with style. This one in Koutsounari occupies a tiny village that has been artfully refurbished.

Rethymno, on the northern Aegean seaside, has (clockwise from upper left) nightlife; a hodgepodge of Ottoman, Venetian, and Orthodox architecture; an Egyptian lighthouse with hieroglyph designs, a huge fortress that juts into the sea, and a 7.5 mile-long beach (here, with sun setting over the fortress).

Bread is art in Crete. The gentleman on the lower left is making phyllo dough, which will be used to create pastries like the cheese boureki on the lower right.

Village life (clockwise from upper left): rugs drying after a good spring cleaning; multi-hued doors; medieval architecture (Ben: “That looks really unsafe.”).

Again, from upper left: Crete’s mountains stay capped with snow throughout April; A cat cools off near Argiroupoli’s waterfalls in the Rethymnon province; churches nestle into cliffsides; make way for crossing goats on country roads; spring flowers paint the hills yellow.

The irrepressibly photogenic Old Venetian Port of Chania (notice the moon rising on the bottom right).

Flavors of Crete: olives; raki – a chilled liquor which is always offered after dinner; artichokes in the market; a frappe – a frothy iced coffee drink which might just be the most-consumed drink in Greece (with good reason).

The Old Town of Chania provides endless eye candy.

The perfect end to the week: saying goodbye to the day from a seaside taverna (Thalassino Ageri).

*Special thanks to the Crete Tourism Board for invaluable assistance with planning this trip, as well as Koutsounari Traditional Cottages and Atlantis Beach Hotel for their sponsorship in Koutsounari and Rethymno. To read about our commitment to candid and balanced reviews, see our disclosures page.

Spring in Crete: a photo tour is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

That’s what our last month has been (mostly): a dream vacation. Too cushy and familiar to be a journey, too long to be a trip. We christened it our “Goodbye Europe Grand Tour 2013,” the last chance to bid farewell to our favorite haunts of the last three years before moving to Asia.

We could wax long and lyrical about the beautiful sunsets that were surely created just for us, the charming people that hosted us, or the traditional foods that energized every cell of our bodies … and we will. We could bombard your eyes with photos of views so breathtaking you’ll want to chuck your ringing smartphone out the window, grab sandals and a credit card, and head for the nearest airport … and we will.

But first, we need to get those of you that haven’t been following along on social media up to speed with where we went and what we were doing. Taking advantage of free tools over at easel.ly, we created these infographics for a visual summary. This might also help those of you that consider replicating all or part of this trip (though we’ll provide further recommendations with lessons learned in an upcoming post). Enjoy!

Goodbye Europe Grand Tour 2013, in infographics is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

Experience the Sensational Magic of The Giant Sequoia

There is something particularly awe-inspiring about nature’s giants; the magnificent blue whale; the Grand Canyon or the might of the Amazon River. The spectacular Giant Sequoia species has rightfully earned a place amongst these marvels of the natural world, producing some of the tallest and the widest recorded measurements of any member of the plant kingdom. These incredible trees are famed not only for their size but also for their longevity, testament to their tenacity for survival in the face of considerable ecological threats. Their natural habitat is confined to only a small area of the United States in Sierra Nevada, California, so a visit to Kings Canyon National Park to view these impressive arboreal residents is a wonderful opportunity.

Relive History with the Giant Sequoia

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Giant Sequoia is its ability to live for millennia, with several having been dated from around 1500 BP. Through study of the tree growth rings (dendrochronology), one of which is produced each year throughout the life of the Sequoia, scientists can deduce what type of climate growth took place in, the level of rainfall and seasonal patterns. One of the oldest recorded Giant Sequoias, named General Sherman, is estimated to be over 2500 years old: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Sherman_(tree). Incredibly, this tree was already well established by the time of the Roman Invasion of England; quietly growing during the Norman Conquest, the signing of the Magna Carta, the passage of the Mayflower and many other renowned historical events.

Planning a Visit to View this Striking Species

The Kings Canyon National Park and adjoining Sequoia National Park are home to not only General Sherman, but also many other enormous Sequoias. This is one of the few remaining locations where these magnificent trees can be seen in their natural environment, as well as offering a chance to see many other examples of flora and fauna which are unique to this habitat. http://www.nps.gov/seki/index.htm provides vital and comprehensive information on what to see depending on when your visit is planned, as well as giving excellent safety and practical advice. If you are travelling independently, tours and guides of the National Park are available, as well as package deals which incorporate a visit to this sensational example of natural wilderness. Advance booking can often result in totally inexpensive flights and securing an advantageous bargain on hotel accommodation or a motorhome for the duration of your stay.

They Won’t be here for Ever; Threats to the Giant Sequoia

Sadly, nothing is immortal and the Giant Sequoia is no exception. Whilst an enormous danger to Sequoias, paradoxically they can continue to reproduce successfully only if forest fires are allowed to spontaneously clear competing vegetation. Although controlled burning has been reintroduced, its abandonment during the 19th and early 20th centuries has had a deleterious effect on the Sequoia population. Recent climate alterations have made it increasingly difficult for the Sequoia to survive. See http://e360.yale.edu/feature/giant_sequoias_face_looming_threat_from_shifting_climate/2631/ for further information on this disturbing trend. Even the toughest Sequoia can fall victim to natural disaster; a random lightning strike destroyed half of an enormous specimen called Washington, who until this accident had been a close second to General Sherman in the height rankings. Despite its colossal size and life span, the Giant Sequoia inhabits a fragile ecosystem. Destructive changes have resulted in a significant decrease in this beautiful flora, so don’t delay in making plans to see these unique and amazing titans of the natural world whilst they are still with us.

Looking for more to do during your California trip? Check out California’s Pacific Coast Highway: Dramamine Drive in Photos.

Experience the Magic of Giant Sequoias at Kings Canyon National Park is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

A couple of years ago, Adam Shepard made the dramatic decision to test the American dream by starting from scratch – literally – building up a humble but comfortable life through hard work and without money, a home, or the use of his college degree. With his latest book he challenges himself again by leaving everything he knows to travel the world for a year.

To kick off the launch of One Year Lived, Adam is allowing us to share digital copies of the book with our readers over the next 48 hours. All you need to do is share this post on the social media channel of your choice or repost it to your blog, and tag us so we know to get in touch with you to provide the download code.

If you can answer yes to any of these questions, this book is for you:

1)      Have you been traveling for too long? Once you begin to take your global citizenship for granted, it’s fascinating to read the thoughts of someone on their first big journey. Yes, I remember being surprised by that and no, I don’t actually remember that one, but I probably felt the same. It’s a delicious way to reconnect with the wide-eyed exhilaration and flashes of clarity over things you now take for granted.

2)      Are you concerned about your country’s competitiveness? Adam proposes that American youth need to begin travelling immediately in order to compete in a global economy, but this argument can apply to many industrialized countries where people are both sheltered from extreme poverty and so absorbed in domestic issues that problems in the rest of the world appear to lack immediacy.

3)      Are you a twenty-something male? You’ll enjoy the vernacular and the candor.

4)      Do you like travelogues? (Something tells me yes if you’re reading this blog.) Adam charts an unforgettable year in seventeen countries, from mustering cattle in Australia to voluntourism in Honduras to bullfighting in Nicaragua to bungee jumping in Slovakia, with a great eye for detail and a quick-moving narrative style.

Though I have to disagree with his opinion on the Duke Blue Devils out of loyalty to my beloved, I enjoyed following Adam’s adventures: primarily because of the first reason I mentioned, but also because the second happens to be a pet issue. When Adam wrote to explain the premise and ask for help getting the word out, I said yes right away. Read it and be inspired.

One Year Lived: Do young Americans need to get out of America to be globally competitive? is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

Planning a trip to Covent Garden? Check out this brief guide to what’s on offer and make it an unforgettable visit.

Covent Garden (Photo credit: Marcio Cabral de Moura)

Where to Stay

A stay in London can be as affordable or as extravagant as you want it to be. If you’re on a budget, head for the Travelodge hotel in Covent Garden which places you right in the heart of everything that’s going on. Not only is it centrally located, but it’ll also leave plenty of cash spare for you to enjoy the rest of your trip.

The Bar, Hawksmoor Seven Dials (Photo credit: LightCapturePaper)

Where to Eat

As a melting pot for various cuisines, Covent Garden will almost certainly have a restaurant that provides culinary fare to suit your palate. Full to the brim with stylish venues, including the popular celeb haunt, The Ivy, you can sample some beautiful food as part of your stay in the area.

Steakhouses in London are plentiful, and Hawksmoor Seven Dials is one of the best that Covent Garden has to offer and you won’t have tasted beef quite like this. As a plus, it has menus ideally suited to pre-theatre grub.

Alternatively, if you like your food with a little more eastern spice, Moti Mahal comes highly recommended, offering stylish interiors and central location and providing vibrant dishes that will shower your tastebuds with Indian flavours.

Where to Shop

While there are a few high street stores scattered around, the area excels in terms of boutiques and independent stores. Any fashionista will love wandering the streets of Covent Garden to find the beautiful shops, including Orla Kiely for some designer wear, or Rokit for retro threads.

It’s also a fantastic place to shop for homewares, with shabby chic favourite Cath Kidston being found on Shelton Street.

Rokit (Photo credit: Eli Epstein)

Where to Drink

With a multitude of bars and pubs to sit and enjoy a perfect pint, there’s bound to be somewhere perfectly suited for you to take a bit of light refreshment. Whether you’re grabbing a quick bevvy before a show or enjoying a few more following the curtain call, there are several establishments that would provide a great atmosphere, including the traditional pubs, the Cross Keys and the Lamb & Flag, as well as upmarket bars such as the Brasserie Max. The Hawksmoor Seven Dials is also a popular haunt for drinkers, providing some great cocktails as well as the grills it’s famous for.

What to Do

The area of Covent Garden is an intrinsic part of the West End, which provides unrivalled theatre opportunities to visitors. Check out the childhood favourite, Matilda the Musical, found at the Cambridge Theatre until the end of December, and Singing in the Rain at the Palace Theatre until the end of August.

Don’t forget the Royal Opera House can be found on Bow Street in Covent Garden, giving visitors access to some of the best opera and ballet that you will have the fortune of seeing. The Royal Ballet perform La Bayadere between the 5^th April and the 22^nd May 2013, while the powerful Verdi opera, Don Carlo, can be found at the ROH between the 4^th and 25^th May.

English: The Royal Opera House in the London district of Covent Garden. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Whatever your reason for visiting Covent Garden, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. On behalf of the Travelodge hotel in Covent Garden, we wish you a memorable (and affordable) stay!

Explore London: what’s on offer in Covent Garden is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

Strasbourg, capital of the region of Alsace

Just across the border in France lies a tiny region called Alsace that almost feels German: half-timbered houses, rolling hills, a strong wine culture, small villages, and words you might recognize. It’s all due to years of shifting borders between France and Germany (in the 74 years between 1871 and 1945 alone, the two powers exchanged jurisdiction of Alsace four times).

The scenic Alsace Wine Route stretches along the base of the Vosges Mountains for 100 miles from Wissembourg to Thann. Not only does it feel vaguely familiar, making it a great place for a day trip and an even better place to get your feet wet with international travel outside of Germany, but it is unforgettably beautiful.

At a time when the grape leaves of this famous wine region are just unfurling, its picturesque villages – considered some of the most beautiful in France – welcome spring with a multitude of festivals and gastronomy fairs.

Below, we’ve selected a handful of the very best:

Spring Festivals

Colmar Spring Fest (April 5–22). Two Easter markets are nestled in the lovely Ancienne Douane Square and the Dominicains Square, allowing guests to stroll small historic alleys while taking in the architecture, booths, street music, city farm, and egg hunts. Info at printemps-colmar.com

Festival des Artefacts (April 10–28, Strasbourg). The region’s major music festival includes 10 days of concerts featuring over 40 international pop and electronica artists, with an emphasis on French performers. Info at festival.artefact.org

International Botanic Festival of Schoppenwihr (April 27–28, near Ostheim). Looking to recreate the overflowing flower boxes of France at home? Stock up on seedlings at this exhibition and market of international plants set in the idyllic surroundings of the meticulously landscaped Schoppenwihr Park. Info at schoppenwihr.com

Fun runs “Les perles du Vignoble” (16km) and “La ronde du Sonnenglanz” (9.5km) (April 28, Beblenheim). The courses take you through vineyards, forests, and charming village centers. As an added incentive, each participant receives a bottle of crémant d’Alsace (sparkling wine) at the finish line. Info at pdv.colmar-marathon.fr

Radio exchange market (May 4, Colmar). For some quirky fun and an excuse to visit Colmar, try “France’s most important event concerning antique radios.” The exhibition and sale takes place from 7 a.m. until 4 p.m. at Place Jean Monnet square.

Jazz Festival Munster (May 7–11, Munster). Going strong for over 20 years, this year the festival welcomes the Count Basie Orchestra to its lineup, with a special jazz after-club free for attendees. Info at jazz-festival-munster.eu

Alsace Eco-Bio Fair (May 8–12, Colmar). At Colmar’s Parc des Exposition over 400 exhibitors will showcase organic products and advice, while workshops teach organic cooking or let you sample organic wines (this is also France’s largest organic wine fair). Add to that concerts, photo exhibitions, and games for children. Info at foireecobioalsace.fr

Wine and Gastronomy Fairs

The gentle hills of Alsace are the perfect setting for outdoor wine and gastronomy fairs

These fairs set out a course through or surrounding a village (except in Mittelwihr, where the event is stationary) with wine and food booths along the way. (Expect to spend about four hours along what is normally an 8-kilometer route.) Most paths are stroller-friendly and leashed dogs are allowed. More information for the events is available at www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com/en/entertainment/events.htm

Mittelwihr (May 4–5 in the Place des Fêtes) Mittelwihr enjoys one of the highest elevations in Alsace, which equals great views.

Hunawihr (May 12) This historic village has many buildings dating to the 16^th century.

Thannenkirch (May 19) In spring, cherry blossoms fill the orchards of this town, which has been declared a “zone of tranquility and silence.” Depart from the Place des Fêtes.

Beblenheim (May 26) Walk through the Grands Crus Sonnenglanz and Mandelberg vineyards accompanied by musical entertainment. By reservation only at bgbeblenheim.fr

Ribeauvillé (June 2) Rallye of the Grands Crus. A trivia contest along the way has an appealing prize: the winner’s weight, converted into bottles of wine!

Rapunzel! Looking out from our B&B in Ribeauville

If you make it to any of these festivals, we want to hear about it. Likewise, if you’ve been to one before, please leave your comments below to help others who stumble across this post. (We visited the last fair mentioned, in Ribeauville, and you can read about it here.)

Spring festivals in Alsace is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

Italy’s Dolomites glow pink at sunset

The Dolomites are like no place you’ve ever been.

For one thing, though you’re in Italy, the predominant language is German and the culture is equally distinctive. You are also in a top alpine ski destination (over the last several years the insurance company ADAC has named Alpe di Siusi one of Europe’s best family ski areas), but won’t find any of the attitude lurking at more familiar locations.

Thirdly, the surrounding peaks, a UNESCO World Heritage site once described by architect Le Corbusier as “the most beautiful natural architecture worldwide,” glow pink at sunset due to unusual geology: They were formed from ancient coral reefs which were hoisted from the sea into the heavens by the violent clash of continents that created the Alps.

We were lured to the Dolomites not only by these unique qualities but by the Dolomiti Superski pass, which covers a whopping 12 resorts, 450 lifts and 1,200 kilometers of trails, including the Sella Ronda, a day-long unbroken loop; the World Cup venue Val Gardena; and the world’s highest alpine pasture, the breathtaking Alpe di Siusi, whose gentle slopes are a beginner and intermediate dream come true.

The gentle environs of the Alpe de Siusi

Which is why it seemed impossible that I was lingering in a tiny wooden hut, enjoying the company of new friends while my lonely skis and poles waited in powdery snow outside. Maybe the altitude and that glass of La Graine, a local red wine, was getting to my head.

The high elevation is responsible for more than a diminishing alcohol tolerance; it also provides a long ski season (ending April 7 in 2013, with limited lift operation through April 14). Multiple kid-friendly areas near Alpe di Siusi ensure fun for all ages throughout the duration (Look for ski obstacle courses with tunnels and cartoon characters; free sledding runs up to 4.7 kilometers long; music; and a DJ who shouts encouragement to each child by name as they ski past. “Brava, Maria Valentina! Brava!”).

Non-skiers in the group can take advantage of hiking, snow shoeing, rock climbing, ice skating, sledding, horse-drawn carriage rides, mountain tours of the nature park, alpine herb farm tours, spa treatments, visits to castles and churches, plus wine tasting and culinary experiences.

The most quintessential of culinary experiences – the one responsible for my reticence to get back on the slopes – is dining in a mountain hut. Not only are they quaint venues with rustic interiors and limited seating, but they are known for the farm-to-table freshness of their menus.

Foodies in South Tyrol should make a beeline for mountain huts

The polenta was creamier and the meat tastier than seemed possible. There was delicate mountain herbs in the seasoning that I’ve never tasted before, and wish I could taste again. I lingered over dessert, an airy profiterole filled with buttermilk mousse and sprinkled with dried wildflower petals. If I were in Switzerland, Austria, or even France, maybe I would feel compelled to get back on my skis and make the most out of the remaining afternoon.

But after all, this is Italy.

The church square of Fiè allo Sciliar, backed by the Sciliar mountain

Getting there

We flew to Innsbruck, rented a car and drove 1.5 hours south (tolls, 14€). Alternate airports are Bolzano, Verona, and Venice. Inexpensive bus transfers are available during high season, or you can take the train to Bolzano, followed by bus or private transfer.

Where to stay

Families will like Ortisei (St. Ulrich in German), which bustles with shops, child ski schools (where the DJ mentioned above is located), and a gondola lift direct to Alpe di Siusi. Serious skiers will prefer a base further up the Val Gardena in S. Cristina / St. Christina, with access to the Sella Ronda. Couples and foodies will enjoy sleepy-but-stylish Fiè allo Sciliar / Völs am Schlern (a five-minute drive to the Alpe di Siusi gondola in Siusi allo Sciliar). It’s also possible to stay within Alpe di Siusi for ski-in ski-out ease.

Author Jenna Harrison shares her favorite destinations on FollowBenandJenna.com

Dolomites of Italy: The coral reefs of heaven is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

Summer, sea, and relaxation … but where?

It’s such a big, wide world, and the travel choices are endless. Has your destination wish list got you feeling indecisive?

You’ve landed on the right page. Welcome to the second installment of Start Booking: Where to Go Next, where we dish up a plate of travel inspiration by sharing our top destination pick, one full quarter in advance.

If you’re like us, as soon as frosty winter weather subsides your thoughts turn to the long days, salty air and sandal-wearing weather of summer. Unfortunately, at far too many seaside destinations summer can also bring enthusiasm-reducing crowds, exhausted waitstaff, and lowered service standards.

(That’s precisely why we erred on the side of caution and suggested that you visit one of our favorite Mediterranean destinations – the sparkling Costa Brava region of Spain – in spring. However, if your heart is set on swimming at the beach in the hottest months, check our post on Italy’s best secret.)

To counteract the summer swarms, we try to travel north when the crowds travel south, and vice versa (stay tuned for next week’s article on spring skiing in the Italian Dolomites, in the Alps’ low season). Regular readers have probably already guessed where this is leading: to Norway, and more specifically, to the Geiranger-Trollstigen region that we visited late last summer.

A room with a view … of Norway

By no means is Norway deserted this time of year; in fact, their entire tourist season is condensed into just a couple of months. Yet the numbers can’t match the beachy resorts down south, and the region of Fjord Norway that we’re describing is definitely “underappreciated.” If you wait until the very end of August or beginning of September, you’ll feel as if the country rolled out the red carpet just for you.

While it’s definitely not a typical seaside destination (too cold to swim, I’m afraid), there is plenty of sailing, water sports, and contemplative sea-gazing to be had. This Nordic paradise is the ideal retreat for independent travelers who like to march to their own drum away from the pounding rhythm of tourist traps:

• Art: Possibly the world’s best public works project, the National Tourist Routes combine the country’s most stunning scenery with large-scale architectural installations that enhance the surroundings, many boasting feats of engineering that seem to defy gravity. The area from Geiranger to Trollstigen is one of the most spectacular, and the drive is an unforgettable window into the extraordinary possibilities available to man collaborating with nature.

• Time travel: Step back in time to when the 20^th century was new. Alesund, the city whose airport is nearest the Geiranger-Trollstigen road, is an Art Nouveau masterpiece, built almost entirely within three years, from 1904 – 1907. Viewed from atop the Aksla lookout, the candy-colored buildings lining miniature islands look like something from a dollhouse. Be sure to stop by and see Icaan at the Hotel Brosundet’s bar for some vanilla spruce liquor.

• Adventure: The entire country of Norway is an outdoors sporting mecca: hiking, kayaking, river rafting, paragliding, and skiing are just a few of them. While we were there, a Norwegian bicycling magazine was charting a route along the Geiranger-Trollstigen National Tourist Road, including the eleven hairpin turns down to Geiranger. Be sure to check operator schedules if you’re travelling near the end of the season, as they tend to close up shop quickly.

• Culture: The unique culture here is something that everyone should experience. The people are long-range thinkers and committed stewards of nature with the egalitarian belief that it should be open to everybody. They are culturally sophisticated, with a love of design (usually minimalist): both established and novice architects are commissioned for pubic works projects, artisans produce high-quality products; chefs tease farm-to-table ingredients into new heights of mouthwatering deliciousness; and the summer month are filled with outdoor music and arts festivals.

• Beauty: Above all, Norway is a land of truly majestic, extraordinary, practically unspoiled beauty. The much-adored fjords are just the icing on the cake; wait until you see the interior regions.

Cantilevered madness on the Geiranger-Trollstigen Tourist Route

However, we have already spent weeks passionately describing Norway’s charms on this site, and encourage you to read all about the Geiranger-Trollstigen region. Our proposed itineraries for trips of varying duration can be found here, and favorite Norway design hotel over here. We even tried to waylay ay hesitations about visiting one of the world’s most expensive countries by providing pocketbook-friendly tips here.

There’s little that remains to be said, which is why we think you should just go ahead and start booking … now!

The Art Nouveau toy town of Alesund

Where to go next: summer edition is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna

One of Stockholm’s many waterfronts at sunset (around 3;30 p.m.)

We’ve been hearing a lot about Stockholm lately. You probably have, too. Tech companies are springing up, expatriates are settling in, and more restaurant and design houses are soaking up international press coverage each day. It seems everyone wants to be there.

We wanted to experience it ourselves, so journeyed north for New Year’s Eve. As all travelers know, sometimes the travel timing is impeccable, but sometimes it’s not. (Like when we went to Croatia in July.)

As it turns out, Stockholm shuts down between Christmas and New Year’s. So although we didn’t walk away with a solid impression of the city, we were left with fleeting impressions and some random facts, which we’ll happily pass along to you:

Why Stockholm

Ask residents what they enjoy about Stockholm, and most answer it’s the quality of life. There are less than 10 million people in Sweden, with slightly under 2 million living in Stockholm, but it doesn’t feel crowded: a full one-third of the city is water, and another third is parks. One of the world’s largest archipelagos, with 40,000 islands, is just a boat ride away.

Gällnönäs brygga, pier, Stockholm archipelago, Sweden (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Tourists and expatriates are attracted by a progressive culture with an emphasis on design and technology (it makes perfect sense that the Nobel Prize was created by a Swede). Underlying it all is a level of economic and social security not available to residents of most cities today; health care, education, childcare and retirement benefits, all provided by the State, do not weigh heavily on the minds of Stockholmers. And then there is the famous gender equality. Quoting from Visit Sweden:

When a child is born, parents (or legal guardians) as a couple are entitled to a total of 480 days of leave at 77.6 percent of their normal salary. This is to be cashed in before the child turns 8…. The effect is that Swedish men do take leave from work to spend time with their babies…. There is even a stereotype to go with this, the so-called lattepappa or “latte dad.” He is a fashionable, urban, dad who spends his days baking sourdough bread and drinking lattes with his baby and fellow dads. (His female counterpart is the “latte mom.”)

Culture

The most pervasive cultural phenomenon that we noticed during this off time was fika, or coffee time (accompanied by a sweet pastry), which stops for nobody and no holiday. It’s more than refreshment, more than relaxation … we have insider knowledge that many of Sweden’s most important business decisions are arranged over a humble cup of Joe.

Fika in Gamla Stan

Wikipedia hosts a detailed (and, to an outsider, humorous) account of the many noun/verb connotations of fika here.

Stockholm neighborhoods

Gamla Stan, the old town and former home of musical group ABBA, is a hilly island labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and leaning buildings that somehow houses both an excessive amount of tourist shops and some of the most expensive property in Stockholm. Across the water to one side is the island of Sodermalm (or “Soder”), which was once the home of people whose trades were too flammable or smelly (tanners) to be near the other townsfolk, but now has turned trendy; the other direction leads you to the downtown, with its train station, businesses, and many hotels. Ostermalm is the ritziest part of the city, with high-end shopping, grandiose buildings, and wide avenues.

Leaning buildings in Gamla Stan

What to do

Since the determining factor was whatever happened to be open at that day and time, and how dry we could keep ourselves during rainy rather than snowy weather, we ended up spending a lot of time in museums.

Stockholm is a huge museum town. We knew a local who was playing host to a Swedish friend from out of town, and even they were going to museums. Luckily, we had The Stockholm Card at our disposal, which allows entry to over 80 museums, boat rides and bus rides, and more. Highlights include the Fotografiska (contemporary photography gallery), National Museum (art and design), Spiritmuseum & The Absolut Art Collection, and the Vasa Museum (the world’s only surviving 17^th century ship).

Viking treasures at the Historiska Museet

If the weather is right and the sea has frozen over, you can go ice skating between Stockholm’s islands. Regardless, you can take a ferry ride or cruise out to the beautiful archipelago, the primary “must do” suggested by locals. We also took advantage of a guided bus tour, to get our bearings when we first arrived.

Transportation

Called “the world’s longest art exhibition,” the underground in Stockholm is more than mass transit. Public works artistry throughout is found to “discourage vandalism and encourage consideration.” Both buses and trams easily cover the remaining areas of the city. Getting to and from the airport is simple (avoid taxis to cut down on sticker shock) via bus or train. We chose the Arlanda Express, leaving from the central train station near our hotel, for the high speed-and-convenience factor.

Where to eat, drink and stay

Unsurprisingly, Stockholm has no shortage of great hotels. There’s everything from hip and stylish Story Hotel to eclectic Art Nouveau Hotel Esplanade, said to be the favorite of Wallpaper founder Tyler Brûlé. For old-world luxury head to The Grand Hotel, overlooking the old town and palace, which has housed the Nobel Prize winners for the last century. We chose the Sheraton Stockholm for the mix of easy location, Starwood points (we’ll be using them up in Tel Aviv next week) and water view.

The Grand Hotel’s Cadier Bar boasts multiple winners of Sweden’s Bartender of the Year award, and its view makes it the ideal place to end the afternoon (Sunday afternoons are packed with people enjoying high tea). The Ice Bar Stockholm, with interiors and glasses made entirely of ice, is created by the founders of Sweden’s Ice Hotel and located in the Nordic Lights hotel (reserve in advance, since capacity is tightly controlled to prevent body heat from melting the surroundings; we were turned off by the wait).

Night view of Gamla Stan from Soder

Whenever we asked for dining recommendations, the first question was, “Do you like meat?” We imagine that stems from a predominantly fish-eating population, but we’re not sure. Meat restaurants seem to be considered fine dining, and are trendy. Our favorite restaurant was the non-meat-specific, cozy but energetic bistro Nybrogatan 38, suggested by the kind of concierge who is worth their weight in gold.

Here is a detailed list of the best places to eat, drink and dance, provided to us by a chic insider at the tourist bureau:

Best restaurants / bars

AG- A hidden and really cool restaurant where you will find a lot of locals. The food is mainly for meat lovers but I usually go there to hang out in the bar.

B.A.R- Create your own meals, by stepping up to the fish tank or ice counter to choose among a wide variety of fresh fish, meat, seafood, seasonal vegetables and condiments.

Taverna Brillo- Newly opened. The restaurant is surrounded by bars and will furthermore also encompass a market, a bakery, an orangerie and an ice-cream café. The restaurant is designed under the lead of Swedish interior designer Jonas Bohlin.

Nytorget Urban Deli- Bar, deli and store in the heart of style-conscious SoFo. The trendy concept reminds you of New York.

Le Bar Rouge- Lively, warm, luxurious setting á la Moulin Rouge!

Orangeriet- One of the cosiest places and superb drinks!

Story Hotel- Really popular among locals for afterwork and more.

Best nightclubs

Berns- Popular among locals and visitors. Gorgeous!

Riche- Classic meeting place in the city center, with multiple bars and restaurants. Stockholm’s art, fashion and club crowds gather here to see and be seen.

Café Opera- This club is housed in magnificent interior spaces in the Opera House.

Vassa Eggen- This is really a restaurant but the bar has become very popular.

Best cafés

Xoko- A mix of dessertery, café and bakery. It is located on my favorite street, Rörstrandsgatan, which is popular among locals.

Gildas rum-  This is a pearl. Laid-back service and cosy, homely feeling.

Sturekatten- A hidden oasis: a true old-fashioned café and bake shop housed in a two-story Östermalm apartment building. Very old but charming!

This trip was made possible in part by the Stockholm Visitors’ Bureau, Sheraton Stockholm (best breakfast buffet a girl could ask for), Arlanda Express, and a hop-on hop-off bus from Open Top Tours. To read about our commitment to fair and unbiased reporting, please visit our disclosures page.

A mini guide to Stockholm, Sweden, and what to do when you visit is a post from: Follow Ben and Jenna